Modern Fashion with a Twist of Tradition

By Sean McBride

Thoughtful design involves an understanding of and a respect for tradition, combined with the ability to respond to the trends and demands of modern life. One of the companies leading the way in fashion design is Japan’s AS KNOW AS, which specializes in crafting garments that take the customer’s “time, place and occasion” into consideration.

The company’s designs reflect the trend of casual clothing being worn in the workplace through simplicity and elegance. “Our goal is to develop easy-care materials with a slightly formal touch at an affordable price,” explains President Eri Asami (see images 2 and 3).

In addition to designing casual clothing with an element of elegance, AS KNOW AS seeks to preserve traditional kimono culture while adapting it to modern life. For example, its range of yukatas—a summer version of the kimono made from cotton—has become popular among its younger customers for the summer festival season. AS KNOW AS has also modernized the kimono by splitting the traditional garment into two pieces, making it easier to wear and allowing it to be combined with western-style dresses (image 5).

Fundamental to AS KNOW AS’s business model is a short production cycle that sees the company create approximately 200 patterns every month, and then produce around 10 pieces per color per pattern. This design process is fluid and continuous, with the company holding exhibitions every two months and constantly discussing trends and demands with its customers. As Ms. Asami says: “My goal is to have a fast and flexible pattern and production team, and a network that allows us to make design changes quickly and communicate with the sales team immediately.”

This short production cycle ensures that no stock remains at the end of a season, a sustainable practice which plays into AS KNOW AS’s wider environmental efforts. For example, its re.link brand gives forgotten garments a new lease of life through remaking and upcycling, with AS KNOW AS’s unique design touch added along the way (image 1).

This eye for innovation has allowed the company to expand overseas, with production partnerships in China and India, as well as a collaboration with the late fashion design icon MARY QUANT in 2021. Ms. Asami explains that this partnership came from the president of MARY QUANT JAPAN being impressed by AS KNOW AS’s designs, and the two firms then went on to co-create new products together. “Building such mutual exchanges is incredibly important,” she adds. “We also have a long-standing collaboration with Peanuts—with Grace Co., Ltd. as the agent—and we express Peanuts through our brand’s unique interpretation. We created a story where we go on a journey to find Peanuts (image 4). Collaborations create a kind of chemical reaction that enhances the uniqueness of our business.”

AS KNOW AS has a presence in Hong Kong, and is eager to continue developing in markets where its folkloric aesthetic resonates with consumers. The company is always keen to collaborate with local partners to bring their brands to life through designs that excite customers. With the firm celebrating its 35^th anniversary, it is set to continue its mission of “delivering happiness through clothing” for many years to come.