Quality Eyewear Styling for a Modern Age

Japan is celebrated for its unparalleled spirit of craftsmanship. What do you see as the main strengths of Japanese craftsmanship, particularly in fields such as eyeglass manufacturing and lens polishing?

When I think about Japanese craftsmanship, it’s fascinating how deeply it’s tied to Japan’s cultural values. One of the first things that stands out is the extraordinary attention to detail—not just in the obvious aspects but also in the subtle elements that enhance a person’s wellbeing and happiness. This meticulous care is reflected in both the quality and longevity of the products, creating a sense of value that customers can feel, both tangibly and intangibly.

Take eyewear as an example. While its primary purpose is vision care, eyewear is also something people wear every day. Naturally, they want it to reflect their values and sense of purpose. This is where Japanese monozukuri truly shines—it’s the remarkable ability to combine exceptional quality and attention to detail with an understanding of what matters to each individual. This creates a unique connection between the product and the customer, which I believe is distinctly Japanese.

The craftspeople here focus deeply on how their products will be experienced, and they simply won’t compromise on quality. That dedication is, in my opinion, one of the greatest strengths of Japanese craftsmanship.

What makes this even more special is the generational refinement of techniques. These skills have been honed over decades, even centuries, through an incredible feedback loop of continuous improvement. The tradition is passed down and honored, creating a legacy that’s both innovative and respectful of the past.

A great example is Sabae, a town in Fukui Prefecture that’s considered the heart of Japan’s eyewear industry. What’s unique about Sabae is its relative isolation—it’s not the easiest place to access, but that isolation has fostered a melting pot of ideas, knowledge, and craftsmanship. The community doesn’t just focus on eyewear; it also produces other exceptional items, like knives. This entire ecosystem has cultivated an environment that produces products of unparalleled quality, which are incredibly difficult to replicate anywhere else.

Japan is facing an aging and declining population, which has specific implications for the eyewear industry, including a rise in age-related eye health issues. A recent study revealed that 40% of Japanese adults over 60 living in urban areas have myopia, and over 80% of men over 70 use corrective lenses. How is your company addressing this challenge, and what opportunities do you see emerging from these demographic changes?

This is undoubtedly one of the most intriguing challenges facing Japan's eyewear industry today. On the one hand, we’re seeing growing demand from an aging population that increasingly needs eyewear products. On the other hand, we’re dealing with a shrinking labor pool to produce these products. It’s quite a puzzle.

In Japan, there’s a lot of emphasis on improving productivity. However, in monozukuri—the art of making things—so much of the value comes from the personal touch and handcrafting. You can’t just automate everything without sacrificing the quality and uniqueness that define Japanese craftsmanship. As a CEO, I’m constantly focused on finding the right balance between automation and preserving that meticulous craftsmanship, especially given the current labor market challenges.

Competing for talent is tough, particularly for roles that require the detailed, hands-on work essential to eyewear manufacturing. While we’re meeting the growing market demand, we’ve had to get creative in how we approach these challenges.

One exciting initiative we’ve launched is through our subsidiary, Sasaki Celluloid Ind. Co., Ltd., in Sabae—a manufacturer with nearly 100 years of history. We’ve developed a unique eight-to-ten-year program that’s a departure from Japan’s traditional lifetime employment model. This program is entrepreneurial in nature: individuals interested in eyewear manufacturing can join and, over the course of eight to ten years, learn every aspect of the craft and the business. After completing the program, they have the option to start their own brand, and we’ll even invest in their startup while giving them access to our manufacturing facilities. It’s a true win-win model. Though still in its early stages, the program welcomed two participants last year and another two this year.

We’re also taking a global approach. Like many Japanese companies, we’ve started hiring international workers, particularly from Vietnam. Many of these employees see this as an opportunity to master the craft and eventually bring their skills back to their home countries—something we’re open to supporting and potentially collaborating on.

Ultimately, today’s challenges demand creativity and adaptability. It’s no longer about sticking to one way of doing things. Instead, we’re developing multiple pathways that benefit both our business and the individuals who join us. The key is crafting win-win solutions that align with what people seek in their careers today, which is quite different from twenty years ago.

When you speak about getting young graduates interested in the craftsmanship element, what kinds of things are you doing to encourage them?

One of the key ways we’re attracting young talent is through digital platforms, particularly social media. We take pride in showcasing our craftsmanship, whether it’s the products we create or the design awards we’re nominated for. These highlights really resonate with people and help inspire interest in our industry. It’s fascinating—there’s still a deep appreciation among Japanese people for traditional artistry, but many aren’t sure how to get involved.

We’ve also had success bringing in talent from outside Fukui Prefecture to work with us in Sabae City. The local government has been incredibly supportive, offering relocation allowances to make the move easier. However, attracting talent is just one piece of the puzzle. We recognize the need for a multi-faceted approach that balances preserving craftsmanship with embracing automation where it makes sense.

Our focus in factory operations is on identifying the processes that add the most value for our customers. While we’re open to automation in certain areas, quality remains our top priority. For example, polishing is a process we want to keep as handcrafted because it has a direct impact on the final quality of our products. On the other hand, there may be steps in production where automation can free up our skilled craftspeople to focus on tasks that deliver even greater value to our customers.

It’s all about striking the right balance—preserving the artistry that defines Japanese craftsmanship while using technology strategically to enhance both efficiency and quality.

Looking at your retail business, another step you have taken is your NINAL subscription service, which offers a flat-rate glasses coordination and replacement service with access to over a thousand different eyewear styles. What was the inspiration behind this, and what are some gaps in the market that it addresses?

The idea for NINAL came from observing interactions in our stores, particularly between parents and kids. We often saw families come in after a child had broken or lost their glasses, and it was rarely a pleasant experience. Parents would be frustrated, children would be upset, and a common dynamic would unfold—the parents would choose something practical, like a basic or oversized frame, while the child would longingly eye the fun, colorful options they actually wanted.

Since kids are often first-time customers in eyewear, we wanted to turn this sometimes stressful experience into something positive. We thought, "What if we could make this process easier and more enjoyable for everyone?" This idea extended to adults as well, especially those with frequently changing prescriptions. We wanted to remove the barriers associated with eyewear and help people see it as something to enjoy—more like choosing an accessory or piece of clothing than a chore.

Interestingly, Japan, while fashion-forward in many ways, tends to be conservative with eyewear compared to Europe. Many people stick to the same style and color because glasses have traditionally been viewed as medical devices rather than fashion accessories. NINAL is our way of encouraging a shift in perspective, helping people embrace eyewear as a form of self-expression.

Another crucial aspect of NINAL is its role in fostering stronger connections with our customers. Traditionally, people only return when something goes wrong. With NINAL, customers come in regularly to change their frames, giving us a natural opportunity to check their vision and ensure everything is on track.

In Japan, eyewear isn’t covered by insurance unless special treatment is required, meaning most people pay out-of-pocket. As a result, they often delay vision checks until there’s a noticeable problem. With NINAL, we’re changing this pattern by encouraging consistent visits, allowing us to monitor vision changes and address potential issues early.

The timing for NINAL was perfect—subscription services were gaining popularity, and consumers were ready for this kind of innovation. The name "NINAL" is derived from the Japanese phrase "ni naru," which means "to become." It reflects our belief in helping people become their best selves through eyewear.

The response has been overwhelmingly positive. Customers love the convenience, and our staff enjoy building genuine relationships through regular yearly interactions, which is exactly what we hoped to achieve. NINAL has been a win-win for everyone.

In addition to your work with Sasaki Celluloid, you’ve been developing your own brands, some of which have been nominated for the prestigious Silmo d’Or award. Could you tell us more about the development of your brands and what qualities have earned them this recognition?

Sasaki Celluloid has an incredible history of crafting eyewear for some of the world’s most prestigious brands. While I can’t name names, I can say we’re talking about the very top tier. What’s particularly fascinating is that, while these collaborations are partnerships, much of the technical expertise and even design inspiration comes from our in-house team.

With such capability and know-how, after the acquisition, I felt it was time for Sasaki to step into the spotlight and share its own story. Just two years ago, we took a bold step and launched our own collection at the Silmo Optical Fair. Although we started small, with a modest booth, something extraordinary happened—our very first Sasaki lineup was recognized as a finalist for the Silmo d’Or design award.

SASAKI-Suekichi sunglasses, nominated as a Silmo d'Or 2023 finalist

In everything we design, we strive to push technical boundaries. Take our work with acetate, for example. We’ve developed a unique technique that creates striking lines by contrasting a matte exterior with a polished interior. It’s incredibly challenging to achieve, but the result is a beautiful, distinctive look that stands out. Through this, we aim to show that Japanese design can break the mold and offer something truly different.

What really drives us is the sense of pride we’re able to bring to our craftspeople. In Sabae, many of them spend their days creating glasses for other brands but rarely get to see their work on store shelves. By creating our own brand, we’ve given them the opportunity to take ownership of their craft. Now they can proudly say, “I made that.”

The process of crafting a single piece of eyewear involves around 200 intricate steps. Launching our own brand has not only showcased this craftsmanship but also given our designers the freedom to express their creativity without being bound by the guidelines of other companies.

Our heritage adds another layer to our story. The name Sasaki Celluloid comes from our history of working with celluloid, a material known for its warm, natural feel against the skin. It’s a material few companies use today, which makes it a unique part of our identity. With such remarkable talent within the Tanaka group and in Sabae—a city that has given us so much—we felt a responsibility to share this story with the world.

Now, our products are sold in our own stores and through distribution channels. What excites us most is seeing our Tanaka staff share the story behind each piece. They take real personal pride in the work, and it perfectly demonstrates how we’re bringing together all the strengths of our group.

Your business primarily focuses on healthcare related to eyesight, which is centered around consultation. However, you also supply non-prescription sunglasses. With 37 million inbound tourists expected to visit Japan this year and an anticipated spending of JPY 7 trillion—making tourism Japan’s second-largest industry after automobiles—do you see this niche segment as an area with growth potential? If so, what strategies are you considering to cater to foreign tourists and expand this part of your business in the coming years?

Let me be candid about our approach to the tourist market—while it’s certainly an attractive opportunity, it’s not where we see our strategic focus. The yen can be quite volatile, and we prefer not to build too much of our business around external factors we can’t control.

At our core, we’re dedicated to building long-term partnerships with our customers. We prioritize lasting relationships over one-time sales opportunities, which is why our primary focus remains on the domestic market. Of course, we have stores in popular tourist areas like Ginza and Osaka, and we warmly welcome everyone who visits. However, we’ve made a conscious decision to stay true to our service model rather than adapting it specifically for tourists.

Interestingly, we’ve noticed that some international customers come in for eye tests and request us to ship their eyewear later. They appreciate our service, even if they don’t need the product immediately. For those seeking instant purchases, other retailers may be better suited to meet their needs.

That said, we do see potential in our Sasaki brand and sunglasses business, particularly in Asian markets. When we participate in exhibitions, there’s often strong interest from these regions. While this segment could grow into a complementary part of our business, it wouldn’t become a core focus.

Our primary commitment will always be to providing comprehensive vision care and exceptional service to our regular customers, staying true to what defines us as a company.

Your role as a non-Japanese leader at a longstanding Japanese company makes your position quite unique. What are some of the distinctive benefits and challenges you’ve encountered as the head of a Japanese company?

Being a non-Japanese leader in a Japanese corporate environment brings some fascinating dynamics. One clear advantage is the expectation for change—it almost comes with the territory. People don’t expect you to maintain the status quo, and this openness to new ideas exists both inside and outside the organization, making it easier to introduce innovative approaches.

I naturally gravitate toward being an ideas person, which aligns well with these expectations. However, the flip side is that being non-Japanese often brings skepticism about your ability to understand the deeper cultural nuances and the unique role companies play in Japanese society. This was particularly challenging early on when my Japanese language skills weren’t strong enough to fully grasp these subtleties. As my language skills improved, I began to understand not just the words but also how people perceived me. Interestingly, my outsider perspective has become an asset, allowing me to step back and evaluate what aspects of the company’s DNA are essential to preserve and which areas could benefit from modernization.

Another advantage is having a broader perspective on global trends and innovations beyond Japan. For example, our subscription service was inspired by observing similar models overseas, and I thought, “Why not bring this concept to Japan?” This kind of cross-pollination has been invaluable in introducing fresh ideas.

That said, there are challenges. In Japan, actions speak louder than words, and trust isn’t given freely—it has to be earned. Building that trust takes time, and people need to see that you’re genuinely committed to the company’s success. I’ve addressed this by engaging in open conversations with employees at all levels, encouraging them to share their thoughts and concerns freely. What I’ve found is that trust built individually eventually evolves into collective trust across the organization, creating a stronger, more cohesive team.

There’s often discussion in the media about how Japanese leaders have been slow to adapt to changes, such as the automobile industry’s shift to EVs. With something like NINAL, which is unprecedented in the eyewear industry, which stakeholder group was the most resistant? Who were the people that gave you the most pushback or expressed skepticism?

The most interesting pushback came from our own employees—and I want to emphasize that it came from a really good place. Many of them have been in the eyewear industry for years, even decades, where the traditional way of selling glasses hadn’t changed for nearly a century. Suddenly, we were asking them to embrace a completely different approach: instead of a one-time payment, we proposed creating an ongoing relationship with our customers through a subscription model.

This wasn’t just a small adjustment; it required a fundamental shift in habits—not only for our employees but for the industry as a whole. Before rolling out NINAL, we did extensive research and knew there was consumer interest. Subscription models had already gained traction in other industries, like cars and digital services, so the concept wasn’t entirely unfamiliar—it just hadn’t been applied to eyewear before. From a consumer perspective, it made sense.

What I learned through this process is that when your team challenges your vision, it forces you to sharpen your thinking. You have to be crystal clear about the why. Why are we doing this? How is it different? How will it benefit our customers? And, importantly, how will it benefit our team? Once we articulated the 'why' clearly, the conversation shifted from "Should we do this?" to "How can we make this better?"

There’s been an unexpected benefit as well—this experience has boosted our confidence to embrace new ideas. Change is now a core part of our identity. Instead of waiting for change to happen to us, we’ve made the choice to be the ones driving it forward.

You’ve been increasingly incorporating new technologies, such as AI and facial recognition, to help customers select frames. How do these technologies enhance the customer experience, and is this an area you plan to continue leveraging in the future?

Technology has become one of our key pillars, and it’s been quite a journey from where we started. When I first joined the company, we were relatively low-tech, but we could clearly see the direction things were headed. Today, if you walk into any of our stores, you won’t see a single piece of paper—everything is managed on tablets. Importantly, we didn’t adopt technology just for its own sake. Every tool we’ve implemented is about enhancing the personal experience for our customers.

One of our core principles is collaborating closely with our customers. We wanted to eliminate the inefficiencies, like staff running back and forth to check things, and instead focus on creating meaningful, high-quality interactions. Tablets have been instrumental in achieving this.

For example, we’ve modernized many traditional tools. Facial impression analysis, which we’ve always done, is now completely digital. We also developed Tanaka Measure, which allows us to measure things like pupillary distance digitally using a camera, replacing the manual process. Even our lifestyle questionnaires for lens selection are now digitized, making the process smoother and more intuitive for customers.

All this data integrates seamlessly into our CRM system. When a customer returns, we have their full history—their preferences, past purchases, and personal details—all readily accessible. This creates a seamless and consistent experience across all our stores, ensuring every visit feels personalized and connected.

Personalized customer service experience with facial impression analysis

As a company with 110 years of history, we’ve built up an incredible wealth of knowledge. When it comes to AI, we’re focusing less on direct customer interaction and more on empowering our staff to access this knowledge quickly and make better recommendations. For example, we’re already using AI in inventory management to determine which products should go to which stores based on local demographics and demand patterns.

Interestingly, one area we haven’t fully embraced yet is virtual try-ons. While it could work for our Sasaki brand, the sheer diversity of products we carry makes it quite complex to implement effectively. That said, we do offer some online tools, like a hearing quick test that connects to our engagement center. However, we continue to prioritize the personal experience—technology for us is about enhancing human connections, not replacing them.

For a company of our size, I think we’ve become quite tech-savvy. Our staff have embraced these tools, and they’re helping us deliver better service every day. The key is finding those small, meaningful wins that improve customer satisfaction while preserving the personal touch that has always been our strength.

You mentioned an increase in inquiries from customers around Asia. Looking ahead, are there specific markets you’re targeting for expansion, or particular product lines you believe could have a broader appeal outside of Japan?

Right now, we’re very much in a learning phase rather than executing a specific expansion strategy. We’re taking the time to understand the unique characteristics of different markets. It’s fascinating because what works beautifully in Japan might not resonate in Singapore, and what’s successful in Singapore might not translate well in Indonesia.

Singapore has been particularly valuable for us as a learning hub because it’s such a multicultural environment. It offers insights we wouldn’t gain from more homogeneous markets, serving as a window into understanding diverse consumer preferences and needs.

On the international front, we’re already engaging with Asian markets through our Sasaki brand. Instead of focusing on retail expansion, we’re exploring growth through OEM partnerships and distributing the Sasaki brand via retailers outside Japan, which has already seen some success. Additionally, we’re looking to expand our direct-to-consumer e-commerce offerings for Sasaki, which are currently concentrated on the domestic market.

If we were to interview you on the last day of your presidency, what goal or personal ambition would you hope to have achieved by that time?

My biggest hope is that when I leave, the company won’t miss me—and I mean that in the best possible way. I’ve always seen myself more as a custodian than an owner of this business. Tanaka has been around for 110 years, and I’m only 48. This company was here long before me, and it will continue long after I’m gone.

As a custodian, my real job is to build something that lasts—not just financially stable, but a living, breathing ecosystem that can grow and reinvent itself. I want to create an environment where great ideas can flourish, where excitement about possibilities meets the expertise to make them a reality.

If I can step away knowing I’ve helped foster a culture where people feel empowered to challenge themselves and the status quo, where innovation becomes a natural part of the company’s DNA—that’s when I’ll know I’ve done my job right. That’s the legacy that would truly make me smile.

For more information, please visit their website at: https://www.tanaka-megane.co.jp/