The Best of Hakata’s Mentaiko From Fukuya

By Daniel de Bomford

Japan is renowned for regional cuisine; every region has a specialty. One can almost always find local specialties to gift loved ones and friends—omiyage—in every town to bring home the joys of travel. Mentaiko, seasoned cod roe, is a specialty of Hakata in Fukuoka. The versatile umami flavor compliments a wide variety of dishes, from Japanese favorites like onigiri—rice balls—to international dishes like pasta or pizza.

Fukuya is renowned for its mentaiko, and Company President Takehiro Kawahara says that Fukuya’s high quality separates it from its competitors. “At Fukuya, we set strict quality standards for Alaskan pollock roe, selecting only the top 20% to 30% from each catch,” he explains. Kawahara describes the selection process for raw materials as crucial because high-quality roe has a naturally mild aroma. Manufacturers who use lower-quality roe often treat their mentaiko with alcohol to mask the fishy smell. He notes, “We focus on sourcing superior-quality roe that requires no such treatment.”

Fukuya is looking abroad and expanding its e-commerce business to sustain its current scale of operations. The company already exports internationally through local partners and e-commerce in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore and South Korea. Because Alaskan Pollock Cod are subject to fishing restrictions, mentaiko is inherently finite; thus, being selective is crucial when expanding. Kawahara explains that the first step is to find a market that has an affinity for Japanese cuisine because once mentaiko is exported, its value dramatically increases. “Naturally, this leads us to focus on capital areas in more developed countries, where demand and affordability align with our product,” he says.

Mentaiko Potato Chips

Mentaiko pairs well with oil and carbohydrates—worldwide staples, so Kawahara sees global opportunities for the company, especially in Europe. However, the European market is difficult to enter due to stringent regulations preventing the company from exporting its goods. To overcome this Kawahara says that Fukuya would need to establish a production facility in Europe to manufacture goods that meet local regulations. Fukuya plans to strategically establish a small, highly automated plant in Fukuoka before it expands internationally. “This facility will focus only on processing the kernels rather than the whole fish roe,” he says. The facility will allow Fukuya to explore new labor-efficient methods of production that it can replicate worldwide.

To promote and educate people about Hakata's rich culinary heritage and cuisine like mentaiko, Fukuya established the Hakata Food and Culture Museum. In its effort to celebrate Hakata’s specialties and culture, it fosters the appreciation of the next generation, providing resources for local school children. Kawahara wants to facilitate a conversation that focuses on appreciating mentaiko and how can be enjoyed in different ways. “The best mentaiko isn’t just about form—it’s about the experience,” he says, adding, “If I can successfully change the way people think about mentaiko, that will be my greatest achievement.”