Mary Chocolate: Blending Japanese Craftsmanship with Global Tastes for the Future of Chocolate

Japanese companies have a history of taking products that originated elsewhere and refining them to the point that they gain international recognition. For example, S&B Foods is renowned for its spices, Coco Ichibanya has successfully opened curry shops even in India, and Mary Chocolate has won international awards. From your perspective, what has made Japanese chefs and craftsmen so successful in reinterpreting and elevating these products?

There are many reasons why Japanese chefs and artisans excel at reinterpreting and refining products from overseas. To begin with, in terms of flavor, I believe one of the most significant influences in the food industry has been the discovery and mastery of umami. While umami is still not widely recognized outside of Japan, I believe it plays a vital role in enhancing the taste of both Japanese cuisine and imported ingredients. Japan is home to many unique flavors and ingredients that are rich in umami, and it's precisely because Japanese artisans have a deep understanding of the subtle nuances of Japanese cuisine that they have been able to incorporate umami into chocolate, creating new and distinctive flavor experiences.

In fact, some of our products have become bestsellers not only because we adapted the taste to better suit Japanese palates and preferences, but also because we adjusted the size to make them easier for Japanese consumers to enjoy. Chocolates from Europe or America often feel too large to Japanese consumers, but our flagship product, “Fancy Chocolate,” was designed in a slightly smaller, bite-sized format, and the flavor was fine-tuned to create an addictive and enjoyable taste. As a result, it became a hit product and remains a long-selling favorite to this day.

Every piece is carefully crafted to deliver an exceptional experience—with delicate flavors, textures, and perfectly balanced sizing that reflect the unique sensibilities of the Japanese people. I believe it is this attention to detail, refinement, and creativity that represents the significant role Japanese chefs and artisans have played in elevating and transforming international products.

We’re very interested in the concept of umami in relation to chocolate. Many of our Western readers may not be familiar with this connection. If they do recognize umami, they likely associate it with ramen, Japanese cuisine, or even sake—but not necessarily chocolate. Could you explain in more detail how chocolate and umami complement each other and what makes this pairing unique?

Umami evokes a variety of sensory experiences depending on the type of food it’s paired with. When incorporated into chocolate, umami can create a flavor that rivals the excellence of Japanese cuisine—one that deeply satisfies the Japanese palate.

Take matcha, for example. Today, matcha is widely recognized around the world as a product derived from green tea leaves, but when we first introduced matcha-infused chocolate, it brought a whole new level of depth and richness to both Japanese and international audiences. We debuted this concept at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris in 2000, marking the first time umami-driven matcha chocolate was presented on a global stage. While initial reactions were not overwhelmingly positive, matcha has since become a beloved flavor worldwide. In many ways, it was only the first step in introducing the taste of Japanese umami to the world.

Since then, we've continued to experiment with a variety of flavors, including citrus ingredients like lemon and orange. Of course, these aren't exclusive to Japan—but one citrus fruit that was largely unknown to chocolatiers overseas at the time was yuzu. When we offered samples of yuzu-flavored chocolate at the Salon du Chocolat in Paris, it attracted considerable attention. Encouraged by this response, we’ve since actively embraced the challenge of infusing traditional Japanese ingredients into chocolate, creating entirely new flavor profiles. As a result, our company—rooted in Japanese tradition—has drawn increasing attention from chocolate lovers around the world.

It’s fascinating to hear your perspective on Japanese innovation. However, one of the major challenges Japan faces is its declining population. With the oldest population in the world, Japan is encountering a shrinking domestic market, which is pushing many companies to expand overseas. Beyond market size, another pressing issue is the shortage of skilled workers and the gradual loss of craftsmanship—the techniques and expertise that have been honed over generations. How is your company addressing these demographic challenges? To what extent do you think Japanese companies will need to look beyond Japan not just to secure new markets, but also to attract and develop new talent?

Japan’s declining population is a well-known issue and has been ongoing since 2008. Surprisingly, however, the consumption of chocolate and ice cream in Japan has continued to grow steadily each year. In my view, one key reason for this is that today’s elderly population—which now represents a significant portion of Japan’s demographics—has been eating chocolate since childhood. This is quite different from older generations in the past who were not as familiar with chocolate or ice cream in their youth.

Because of this, Japan’s population decline has, so far, not had a negative impact on our sales. That said, the situation isn’t entirely optimistic. While older consumers still enjoy chocolate, it’s possible that their consumption may gradually decline as they begin to prioritize health more seriously.

Even so, we see a major business opportunity in the rise of inbound tourism. The number of international visitors to Japan is steadily increasing, and many of them choose to spend money on Japanese confectionery, including chocolate. Last year, approximately 36 million people visited Japan, and the government now aims to attract 60 million visitors annually by 2030—an amount nearly equivalent to half of Japan’s total population. This influx of foreign visitors presents a tremendous opportunity to introduce Japanese sweets to a new global audience.

For example, our “Fancy Chocolate” has become especially popular among Chinese tourists, who frequently purchase it as a souvenir at airport shops. There was even a day when Chinese visitors lined up at a department store in Osaka just to buy our products.

As for your question about Japan’s labor shortage, our company has taken proactive steps by hiring foreign workers, especially during peak seasons. At one point, they made up as much as 40% of our total workforce. To support this, we’ve implemented a multilingual video-based training system that clearly explains tasks and procedures, ensuring that foreign workers can fully understand their roles and perform to the best of their abilities. By creating a structured and inclusive environment, we’ve been able to effectively address labor shortages while embracing a more diverse workplace.

Earlier, you mentioned how older consumers appreciate your chocolates. When we recently spoke with a sake company, they noted an interesting trend—sales of premium varieties like Daiginjo are rising, while standard varieties are declining. This suggests that as consumers age, they seek higher-quality products and gravitate toward more refined choices. Is this trend also happening in the chocolate industry? Are premium chocolates seeing stronger sales than standard chocolate products for the same reason?

It’s not necessarily the case that premium chocolate is consistently outperforming standard products in terms of sales. Rather, what we’re seeing is a trend where consumers are willing to pay a higher price if a product aligns perfectly with their personal preferences or if they perceive value in the ingredients, production methods, or overall concept.

One of the biggest events in our industry is Valentine’s Day. In recent years, there’s been a clear shift toward people choosing products that reflect their own values and with which they feel a personal connection. This type of personalized demand isn’t limited to Valentine’s Day—it also appears around birthdays, weddings, and even business-related occasions like the opening of a new store.

Given these trends, what we as a company need to consider is how well we can meet the varied and highly individual needs of customers through the chocolates we offer. At present, we tailor our chocolate offerings to different needs across various channels during events like Valentine’s Day. However, we aim to go beyond these channels and prioritize delivering chocolates that truly respond to the personal preferences of our customers.

Looking ahead, we hope to offer more flexibly personalized, made-to-order chocolates that cater to individual tastes and needs. One of our chocolatiers has even won a gold medal at the International Chocolate Awards (ICA), and with that level of skill, we would love to create special chocolates crafted uniquely for each customer. Not only would this allow our chocolatiers to fully showcase their talents, but we believe the smiles of customers who receive chocolate made just for them would also be a great source of motivation and pride for our team.

Earlier, you mentioned that your products are available both in-store and online. Since the COVID-19 pandemic, e-commerce has surged in popularity, with many customers willing to pay more for the convenience of online shopping. We also discussed how your chocolates are highly popular with tourists visiting Japan, many of whom may wish to purchase more once they return home. How do you see your e-commerce platform evolving in the future? And do you see potential for expanding international sales through online channels?

We consider our online store to be a key channel that we will continue to focus on. At the moment, both our product offerings and system infrastructure are still developing, so we recognize the need to go beyond simply taking orders and delivering products.

We believe it’s important to enhance the platform with features that allow for more thoughtful and detailed gift services, as well as offering exclusive items that are only available through our online shop. For example, the personalized, made-to-order chocolates we mentioned earlier could be an exciting addition to our e-commerce platform. Providing such unique experiences online would allow us to better meet the evolving expectations of customers both in Japan and abroad.

In October 2020, you launched Mary’s Lab, a lifestyle media platform designed to redefine the chocolate experience through cultural, historical, and sensory elements—such as creating chocolate-inspired aromas to enhance the enjoyment of consuming it. How did the idea for Mary’s Lab come about, and what are some of the key initiatives you envision for it moving forward?

Mary’s Lab was launched with the goal of introducing new ways for customers to enjoy chocolate. The first project in this series was a collaboration involving incense. A few years ago, during a visit to Kyoto, we partnered with a traditional incense maker with over 300 years of history to create a unique scent designed to enhance the atmosphere in which chocolate is enjoyed.

Following “scent,” we plan to explore other themes such as “mountain climbing and chocolate,” and “music and chocolate.” Through Mary’s Lab, we aim to continue proposing fresh and unexpected ways to experience chocolate from a variety of perspectives.

Looking ahead to 2030, when your company will celebrate its 80th anniversary, what ambitions or goals would you like to have achieved by then?

Our goal for the next five years is to strengthen our brand and ensure sustainable growth by shifting the perception of our brand from “by Mary” to “is Mary.” As CEO, my mission is to create more opportunities for people to experience our chocolate and to elevate the brand to new heights. That is my vision for the future.

For more information, please visit their website at: https://www.mary.co.jp/mary/