Hasetora: Originality that Cannot be Imitated

Japan’s textile and clothing industry is deeply rooted in tradition and craftsmanship, exemplified by iconic garments like the kimono and yukata, as well as intricate designs found in carpets, tiles, and woodwork. Across all these elements, there is a seamless blend of artistry and functionality. This monozukuri spirit—Japan’s philosophy of dedication to craftsmanship—has positioned the country as a global leader in apparel and textiles. How would you define the uniqueness of Japanese apparel and textiles? What do you see as the main strengths that set your industry apart on the global stage?

I am the fifth-generation owner of our company, but many other companies in this industry have even longer histories—some spanning 300 to 400 years. One unique characteristic of Japanese businesses, particularly in apparel and textiles, is their ability to transcend time and sustain operations for centuries.

This longevity is especially evident in traditional kimono production, which involves multiple intricate processes, each handled by specialized companies. Over the years, these companies have continuously refined their craft, striving for perfection in their respective roles. Through these collective efforts, they not only preserve tradition but also strengthen the entire textile and apparel industry. This dedication to craftsmanship and specialization is a defining trait of Japanese monozukuri—a commitment to excellence in manufacturing that has been passed down through generations.

Japan is facing a significant population crisis. The current population of 125 million is projected to decline to 90 million by 2050 and could be halved by the end of the century. This presents two major challenges: a shrinking domestic market and increased competition for a dwindling labor pool. Different companies are taking various approaches to address these issues, but a common strategy appears to be internationalization. How much of your company’s strategy is focused on expanding internationally, and what other measures are you implementing to navigate these demographic challenges?

In today’s globalized world, we anticipate working alongside people from all over the world. To prepare for this shift, we are focusing on refining our manufacturing processes by strengthening our Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs)—a structured framework that outlines the essential steps in our production process.

As a longstanding company, many of our experienced employees rely on intuition, knowledge, and years of hands-on expertise. However, passing down this deeply ingrained know-how to the next generation is a challenge, especially as Japan’s labor force shrinks. To ensure the sustainability of our manufacturing process, we need to develop clear, comprehensive SOPs that allow anyone—regardless of experience level or nationality—to engage in our production while maintaining the high-quality standards we are known for.

Looking ahead, we anticipate employing more foreign workers. By having strong SOPs in place, we can ensure that they seamlessly integrate into our operations and contribute to manufacturing high-quality products. To further improve knowledge transfer, we are transitioning from traditional text-based manuals to video-based training, allowing younger workers to learn directly from experienced employees.

We are also focusing on what we call intellectual manufacturing—a transformation from conventional production methods to a system that captures and codifies our accumulated expertise. While these skills and insights have traditionally been intangible, we are working to make them more structured and transferable, allowing us to extend our know-how beyond Japan.

Expanding internationally does not necessarily mean building plants overseas. We see our expertise—our monozukuri craftsmanship, manufacturing techniques, and problem-solving capabilities—as valuable assets that can drive global expansion. As we navigate Japan’s population decline, we believe that leveraging the knowledge and skills we have accumulated over the past century will be key to sustaining and growing our business.

Your company was founded in 1887, starting as a silk mill and evolving into a leader in innovative textiles. Today, you operate across multiple segments. Your textile division produces high-performance fibers such as KODENSHI and Brewed Protein. Your carpet division utilizes your original Computer Jet Dye technology to print digitized designs with custom color combinations. Meanwhile, your advanced materials division is driving innovation through nanofiber development. Which of these segments do you see as having the greatest potential for market growth? Additionally, are there any new sectors you are looking to expand into in the future?

When considering the strengths of our business segments, we must look at both the pressing social issues we face today and areas where demand is growing. As you may know, the fabric and apparel industry is the second-largest contributor to environmental degradation worldwide. This issue is especially critical in Europe, where countries are actively seeking solutions to reduce the industry’s environmental impact. Given this global scrutiny, we see an opportunity for our textile division to contribute to solving these challenges through more sustainable innovations. While expanding our business is important, our primary focus is on making a meaningful contribution to the world from an environmental perspective.

Looking back, we have been able to sustain our company for 137 years because we have continuously addressed societal challenges. I believe two key factors have driven this longevity. First, we must always strive to be a company that society truly needs. Second, we must proactively tackle social issues through our innovations. While business expansion and profitability are, of course, necessary, they are not our sole objectives. What matters most is how we can leverage our expertise to address societal challenges and contribute to a more sustainable future. That is the core philosophy that drives us forward.

Your company has set an ambitious goal of achieving 80% sustainable production by 2030, underscoring your strong commitment to environmental responsibility. This initiative will be driven by your eco-friendly textiles, with the broader aim of redefining global textile standards. How is your R&D helping to achieve this goal, and what new innovations can we expect from your company over the next five years?

We have seen many startups developing new materials, but in the spinning industry, when a new product like Brewed Protein is introduced, it is rarely perfect in its initial phase. For example, some materials may have physical property challenges that need to be refined before they can be commercially viable. This is where our expertise in spinning comes into play.

Our strength lies in our ability to blend different materials to optimize performance and functionality. For instance, while it may be difficult to create a product entirely from Brewed Protein, combining it with cotton or other fibers allows us to develop commercially viable applications. Through our deep industry know-how and specialized production processes, we can accelerate the commercialization of promising new materials.

There is a wide range of variations when it comes to these materials, and our role is to identify the best combinations as quickly as possible. By doing so, we not only ensure high-quality products but also support and expedite the efforts of companies working to bring innovative textiles to market.

This is how we aim to leverage our expertise—not just for our own company’s growth, but also to support other companies around the world. We are actively considering how to share our know-how and technical skills with global partners, effectively "exporting" our capabilities to international markets.

As a spinning company, our role extends beyond adjusting the physical properties of materials—we also have the ability to influence cost structures. For example, materials developed by startups like Spiber are highly innovative but often very expensive due to low production volumes. In such cases, we can blend these materials with natural fibers like cotton or wool to create a more commercially viable product. This allows us to optimize both performance and affordability, ensuring that groundbreaking materials can reach a broader market.

This is where a spinning company like ours plays a crucial role—bridging the gap between innovation and large-scale, cost-effective production.

Your carpets, made with Computer Jet Dye technology, serve a diverse range of high-profile clients. How do you ensure that your carpets meet the high standards and unique requirements of such prestigious customers? What sets your company apart as the preferred choice for those seeking both exceptional quality and stunning designs?

We first introduced Computer Jet Dye products in 1980, meaning we now have 45 years of accumulated knowledge and experience. This expertise gives us a significant edge over our competitors.

When working with high-end clients, we adhere to the corporate principles that have been passed down through generations. Our approach has always been to serve premium customers by providing premium products. This philosophy has been central to our business throughout our history. However, selling to high-end clients requires more than just an exclusive product—it demands an unwavering commitment to quality. That is where we have focused our efforts the most.

That said, we do not exclusively serve high-end clients, but they remain a priority for us. This long-standing dedication to quality and craftsmanship has not only defined our business but also positioned us for continued growth. It is a key differentiator that will drive our company forward into the future.

You have formed strategic alliances with innovative companies such as M-TechX, which specializes in cutting-edge nanofiber technology, and Spiber, known for its Brewed Protein materials. Additionally, you collaborate with industry leaders like Toyota for hybrid automotive carpets and Kyoto Montsuki for deep black dyeing techniques. Looking ahead, what is your partnership strategy? Are there specific industries or technologies you are looking to collaborate with in the future?

When considering partnerships, we take a flexible approach. For example, with startups like Spiber, we may take an equity stake, while in other cases, we establish joint ventures. Our criteria for selecting partners are based on more than just business expansion—we prioritize collaborations that help address global social issues. This is our guiding principle when evaluating potential partnerships.

We do not have a rigid preference for the format of these collaborations. What matters most is creating the best possible synergy. If strong synergy exists, we can scale our solutions globally and maximize our impact. We are open to various partnership structures, whether it be investment, M&A, or other collaborative models, depending on what best suits both parties.

Ultimately, our approach is not about benefiting ourselves alone. Our goal is to share and expand our technologies and expertise worldwide, making a meaningful contribution beyond just business growth. This philosophy is at the core of how we approach partnerships.

You have transitioned away from operations in China and the US, but your ambition for international expansion remains strong. You’ve been actively showcasing your innovative textiles at Milano Unica, and in previous interviews, you have emphasized the importance of global collaborations in driving future success. Looking ahead, which countries or regions have you identified for future expansion? What does your international growth strategy look like, and how do you plan to establish a strong presence in these markets?

When considering areas for business expansion, Europe is definitely one of our key target regions. The EU has been steadily tightening environmental regulations, and awareness of sustainable products is particularly high. Given that we offer textiles and apparel with both high functionality and eco-friendliness, we believe our products are well-suited for this market.

In terms of strategy, one of our core approaches is partnering with material startups. We recognize that expanding globally cannot be achieved alone—we need to collaborate with innovators like Spiber. The key is to complement each other’s strengths. For instance, material startups may develop groundbreaking new materials, but they often lack the expertise to turn them into high-quality yarns and fabrics. That’s where we come in. By combining our capabilities, we can bridge this gap, accelerate commercialization, and bring sustainable, high-performance products to the market.

This model of mutual collaboration remains central to our global expansion strategy, ensuring that we can scale sustainably while driving innovation in the textile industry.

Your company is celebrating its 137th anniversary—a remarkable milestone. Let’s imagine that in three years, we return for another interview. What are the key goals or dreams you hope to achieve by then? How would you like your company to be perceived in the global market at that time?

I was appointed president of this company in December 2019, and I am now in my sixth year in the role. When thinking about where I want the company to be in three years, I believe it’s important to reflect on what I have focused on over the past five years. Our priority has been investing in the next generation of employees. We currently hire 10  people across our entire group each year, and my goal is to ensure that they feel fulfilled and happy in their work. That may sound abstract, but what I mean is that I want to create a work environment where our employees can work with energy and enthusiasm. This is critical because they are essential to our ability to manufacture high-quality products.

At its core, monozukuri is not just about technology or materials—it is about people. Our employees are the foundation of our business, which is why, over the next three years, I want to ensure that they feel truly satisfied working for us. One tangible measure of our workforce is that the current average employee age is 33. In three years, I hope that when you return, they will tell you that they are happy working here, that they feel valued, and that they see a future with our company. That is the question I would like you to ask them.

Before I became president, my father led this company for 30 years. However, during his last decade in charge, we faced significant struggles—our sales were sluggish, and we even operated in the red for a period. When I was in my late 20s and early 30s, I watched many of my colleagues leave the company. They told me they were unhappy, that they saw no future here, and that they had lost any sense of excitement or dreams about their work. That was deeply frustrating for me, and I often clashed with my father over the direction of the company. I told him that if our employees were not happy, the company would not survive.

So when I became president, I was determined to change the corporate culture. Of course, revenue and profitability matter, but they are not my top priority. My number one goal has always been to create a workplace where our employees feel engaged, valued, and motivated. If I can achieve that, then I believe business success will naturally follow.

For more information, please visit their website at: https://hasetora.co.jp/