From Local Brewing to Global Reverence: How DASSAI Rewrote the Sake Playbook

DASSAI has transformed from a small regional sake brewery in Yamaguchi into a global icon. In the 1990s, you shifted from mass-market sake to premium Junmai Daiginjo and established an in-house brewing team. By the early 2000s, DASSAI had become known for its elegance and quality. While deeply rooted in Japanese tradition, DASSAI has evolved into an international brand. Could you walk us through the major milestones that marked this transformation?

One of the most pivotal decisions we made was to step away from the local market entirely. At the time, we were producing inexpensive sake for the local area, but it was a saturated, highly competitive “red ocean.” We were already among the struggling players, and Yamaguchi itself is a rural region with a shrinking population—we could no longer count on the local market to sustain us. That reality forced us to look toward Tokyo and other urban centers as our new target markets.

Previously, we had been mass-producing low-cost sake, but as the regional market declined, it became clear we couldn’t survive by doing what we had always done. The shift toward Tokyo was less of a strategic ambition and more of a necessity. The market there was certainly larger, but also fiercely competitive. In that kind of environment, ordinary sake wouldn’t stand out. We had to focus solely on Junmai Daiginjo to differentiate ourselves—and that decision proved to be one of our greatest successes.

We had been consistently losing in our traditional market, but even a modest foothold in Tokyo gave us a path to survive. That approach—aiming for niche success in a major market—suited us as underdogs. Ultimately, the momentum we gained in Tokyo became the driving force behind our expansion into global markets.

The Japanese sake industry faced serious headwinds in the 1990s due to competition from beer, wine, and shochu. DASSAI took the bold step of abandoning mass-market products in favor of premium sake. What risks or concerns did you have at the time? And how did that decision shape the long-term identity of the DASSAI brand?

To be honest, we had no choice. At the time, we were still producing sake under the Asahi Fuji label, and the situation was dire. We were in deep crisis. Despite that, many people around us opposed the changes we proposed. From their perspective, we still had some options—they couldn’t understand why we were taking such drastic steps. But from where we stood, it was a matter of survival.

Making that decision made me acutely aware of how lonely leadership can be. It taught me that, as a business leader, you must pursue what you believe in—even if it means going against conventional wisdom.

Because of this, some people in the industry began calling me a rebel or even, flatteringly, a revolutionary. I think that perception helped us make further bold decisions. We were no longer constrained by the weight of tradition—we had already broken from it.

DASSAI’s brewing methods also departed from traditional practices. You replaced the old toji (master brewer) system with a younger, in-house team that relied more on scientific knowledge. Could you tell us more about why and how that transition happened?

The reason was more emotional than technical. I simply wanted to create truly delicious sake—something that would bring joy to the people who drank it. That desire was so strong, it was almost painful. It wasn’t driven by business strategy, but by a personal urge to pursue excellence.

Because of that passion, I put intense pressure on our then-head brewer, perhaps unfairly. He eventually left, frustrated by the expectations and the lack of a clear future. That led us, reluctantly at first, to move away from the traditional toji system and build our own in-house brewing team.

In hindsight, this shift wasn’t based on a grand vision or long-term plan. It was a response to a series of challenges we encountered along the way. But at every step, what kept us going was that deep desire—to deliver better sake, one bottle at a time.

Thank you. One final question. DASSAI’s journey has been one of leadership, innovation, and mission. You’ve not only revitalized a family-run brewery but also helped reshape Japan’s sake industry. Looking back, what philosophy or values would you most want to pass on to the next generation of leaders?

A company must exist in harmony with society. If it fails, society will reject it. If it succeeds and becomes prominent—like DASSAI has—it will still face criticism. People may try to pull you down. So as a leader, maintaining emotional stability is crucial. That stability comes from knowing that your work has value to society.

That’s why I believe the most important thing is not how much money a company makes, but what it contributes to the world. That mindset—that a company must be of service to society—is the philosophy I hope the next generation of leaders embraces.