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Creating Rich Dining Experiences Globally

Interview - May 23, 2025

Wondertable believes in dining as more than a meal—crafting special moments that bring people together in joy.

HIROAKI KOUNO, PRESIDENT & COO OF WONDERTABLE, LTD.
HIROAKI KOUNO | PRESIDENT & COO OF WONDERTABLE, LTD.

Nearly 37 million tourists visited Japan last year, many in search of an authentic Japanese culinary experience. Back in 2013, there were around 55,000 Japanese restaurants worldwide; by 2023, that number had surged to nearly 200,000. At the core of this growing global interest is the domestic washoku scene, where countless restaurants are both preserving and innovating traditional Japanese food culture. In your view, what has driven the sustained rise in washoku’s global popularity in recent years?

Several key attributes are driving the global appeal of washoku. First and foremost is its healthfulness. As people around the world increasingly adopt healthier diets, washoku is often recognized as one of the healthiest culinary traditions. Another important factor is umami—a uniquely Japanese flavor profile that distinguishes washoku from other cuisines. Visually, washoku is also very appealing, which aligns well with today’s social media-driven culture, where beautifully presented dishes are frequently shared online. Additionally, the strong sense of seasonality and the rich cultural and historical context behind washoku continue to resonate with audiences globally.

 

It’s interesting—when people think of washoku, they often focus on its traditional aspects. Yet at the same time, we’re seeing Western cuisine increasingly influenced by Japanese elements. Some see this fusion as an accessible gateway for washoku to reach a wider global audience, while others view it as a step away from tradition. From your perspective, what does this blending of Japanese and Western cuisines reveal about global food culture, and what implications does it have for the future of washoku?

I see this fusion—or more accurately, the localization of Japanese cuisine to fit regional culinary cultures—as a positive development. For instance, we operate as a licensing brand for Western restaurants, incorporating Japanese elements in ways that suit local tastes. When Japanese cuisine expands internationally, embracing localization helps broaden its appeal. These fusion experiences can spark curiosity, encouraging people to visit Japan and experience the original.

One of washoku’s key strengths is its adaptability—it blends well with other culinary traditions. Take French cuisine, for example: it has such a distinct identity that it's more difficult to localize or fuse. Washoku, on the other hand, is flexible and versatile, making it easier to integrate with local food cultures around the world.

 

The Japanese government has set a target of welcoming 60 million tourists by 2030—nearly double the current figure. From casual izakaya to Michelin-starred sushi restaurants, Japan’s diverse culinary landscape plays a central role in its global appeal. How is the restaurant industry preparing to accommodate this anticipated surge in international visitors, and what innovations are being introduced to enhance their dining experience?

The biggest challenge for the restaurant industry has traditionally been the language barrier. However, with advancements in technology, it's becoming much easier to navigate. We’ve also begun placing greater emphasis on inbound tourism. What’s most important is delivering a truly authentic Japanese experience.

For example, we offer interactive dining formats such as shabu-shabu, where guests cook the food themselves, and other restaurants offer similar experiences with sushi. We believe it’s not just about serving food—it’s about creating a memorable experience. That sense of immersion is what we’re striving to provide.

 

I’d like to touch on a broader issue facing Japan—demographics. By 2040, the country is projected to experience a 12% decline in its labor force, and the average age of farmers is nearing 65. These trends present significant challenges for food sustainability and the domestic supply chain. What strategies are you implementing to address these issues?

To address the challenges of a shrinking domestic market, we’re focusing on two key strategies: boosting inbound tourism and expanding overseas. Another important priority is revitalizing Japan’s restaurant industry by ensuring fair compensation for staff.

Take a major beef bowl chain as an example—meals are offered at the low price of around three dollars. Globally, there are very few countries where people can dine out at such a low cost, making the cost-performance of Japan’s food service industry particularly remarkable. Because of this, there is a growing need to balance operational efficiency with efforts to improve employee working conditions and ensure the long-term sustainability of businesses.

While automation is on the rise, I believe the restaurant industry should remain rooted in hospitality and human connection. That’s why we’re actively working to restructure our margins in a way that prioritizes fair pay for our employees.

 

Your flagship brands, such as Nabezo and Mo-Mo Paradise, cater to Japan’s upper-middle class—a highly competitive segment with no shortage of dining options. How do you differentiate these brands, along with BEER WORKS, from others in this space?

Our biggest differentiator is that each of our brands is designed to be the number one niche player in its category. For example, Peter Luger is our specialized steakhouse brand, Lawry’s focuses on prime rib, and Mo-Mo Paradise serves as our global flagship for shabu-shabu.

Mo-Mo Paradise is unique in that it targets both inbound tourists within Japan and international markets. Other brands are more focused on Japan’s upper-middle-class domestic market. For instance, Peter Luger is well-suited for entertaining guests, Lawry’s offers a refined dining experience, while Barbacoa provides a more casual setting—especially popular in the evenings thanks to its beer offerings. We position each brand strategically to suit different occasions and meet diverse customer needs.


MO-MO-PARADISE Shinjuku Kabukicho Main Store


You currently operate around 80 locations overseas in markets such as Los Angeles, Taipei, and Jakarta. Are you actively seeking franchise partners to support further expansion? If so, where do you see the greatest potential for future partnerships?

Our approach to overseas expansion is relatively passive, as we’ve already entered most of the markets we initially targeted—particularly in countries with an existing hotpot culture, such as Vietnam, Malaysia, and Thailand. One exception is South Korea, where we’re actively looking to expand further.

That said, we continue to receive interest from potential partners abroad. We already have a presence in Los Angeles, and we’ve had inquiries about expanding into New York and Europe. We’re open to those conversations, but our philosophy is to grow slowly and locally—nurturing each brand carefully rather than pursuing rapid or aggressive expansion.

 

Are you also looking to introduce more international brands into the Japanese market? If so, what criteria do you use when selecting which brands to bring in?

While our licensed brands currently generate higher sales, we’re not actively seeking additional licensing partnerships. Licensing tends to carry greater risks, and the dynamics of brand loyalty can often limit profitability. That said, we do receive many proposals from overseas brands, thanks to our strong track record in the domestic market.

If we were to expand our licensing efforts, it would likely be through Mo-Mo Paradise in international markets, and only through close-knit collaborations that align with our values. Looking ahead, our strategy is to focus on growing our original brands independently.

 

Mo-Mo Paradise offers unique flavor variations like tonkotsu and tomato broths, while Nabezo features options such as sukiyaki with Okinawan brown sugar. YONA YONA BEER WORKS pairs exclusive craft brews with specialty dishes. Could you share a few of your personal recommendations for our readers, and give us a sense of the kind of dining experience they can expect?

In Shinjuku, we have both a YONA YONA BEER WORKS and a Mo-Mo Paradise located in the Humax Pavilion Shinjuku East Exit building. You can start your evening with a pre-dinner beer at YONA YONA, head over to Mo-Mo Paradise for a shabu-shabu meal, and then return to YONA YONA to finish the night with another drink.

One of the advantages of having multiple brands is that guests can enjoy different experiences for different occasions—while still receiving the same high level of hospitality and quality that unites all of our restaurants.


YONA YONA BEER WORKS Shinjuku


As a subsidiary of HUMAX Co., Ltd., what kinds of synergies are you able to leverage within the broader HUMAX ecosystem?

The greatest advantage of being part of the HUMAX Group is the financial stability and support they offer, largely thanks to their real estate business. Additionally, running restaurants requires significant attention to human resources management, and HUMAX provides valuable support in that area. This allows us to concentrate on strategy, brand development, and delivering the best possible dining experience. That ability to specialize and focus on our strengths is a major asset.

 

Finally, if we were to return for a follow-up interview in 2030, what would you hope to have accomplished by that time?

By 2030, I hope we’ll have made a meaningful impact on the restaurant industry—not just by serving great food, but by fostering a culture of happiness and hospitality. My biggest goal is to raise salaries for our staff and become the best-paying employer in the industry. When our employees are motivated and well-compensated, it elevates every aspect of the customer experience.

 


For more information, please visit their website at: https://wondertable.com/

 

LEADER DATABASESee all Database >

Shinji Umehara

President, Representative Director
Hotel Okura Tokyo Co., Ltd.

Aiko Ikeda

President and Representative Director
Kanden Amenix Co., Ltd.

Takeshi Hayakawa

Representative Director and President
TOA CORPORATION

Shin Jae il

CEO
Abilitysystems

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