Choshi’s Legacy of Soy Sauce Craftsmanship

In recent years, Japan’s food exports have continued to reach record highs. This trend parallels the increase in Japanese restaurants overseas and the growing global interest in Japanese food culture. What do you think are the reasons behind the surging demand for Japanese food and food culture?

The biggest turning point in the global spread of Japanese cuisine was its 2013 registration as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. This recognition drew international attention, but it was the growth of inbound tourism that further accelerated its popularity. As more overseas visitors came to Japan and experienced authentic Japanese cuisine, its reputation spread worldwide. Additionally, social media has played a major role in the dissemination of Japanese food. The deliciousness and visual appeal of Japanese dishes attract global interest through online sharing.

Another important factor is the growing awareness of dashi, the foundation of Japanese cuisine. Dashi enhances the unique umami of Japanese food, and its appeal has become widely recognized. These combined factors continue to drive the global popularity of Japanese cuisine and fuel strong demand for Japanese ingredients and food culture.

As part of its efforts to promote the international spread of Japanese cuisine, the Japanese government has set an ambitious goal of reaching JPY 5 trillion in food-related exports within the next ten years. Do you think this target is achievable within the set timeframe? Additionally, what kind of initiatives should Japanese food companies undertake to help achieve this goal?

I cannot say for certain whether this target is achievable, as our company mainly specializes in soy sauce and seasonings, and we are not in a position to speak on behalf of the entire Japanese food industry.

However, regarding our specific sector, the Japan Soy Sauce Association publishes annual data on export volume and value. In 2023, soy sauce exports reached 40,000 kiloliters, with a total export value of JPY 10 billion. While the latest figures have not yet been released, exports have already surpassed the 2023 level and continue to show an upward trend.

Although it is difficult to determine exactly how much soy sauce contributes to the government’s overall food export initiatives, the industry is actively working to expand its presence in overseas markets. Our company is also part of this effort, doing our utmost to promote the excellence of Japanese soy sauce and help more people around the world become familiar with and enjoy it.

The soy sauce market reflects the broader challenges and opportunities facing Japan’s food industry. Domestic soy sauce consumption peaked in 1979 and has declined by about 30% over the past two decades. In contrast, exports have more than doubled during the same period. How has your company responded to these changes? How do you balance the shrinking domestic market with the growth of overseas markets?

The decline in soy sauce consumption in Japan is due to various factors, including population decline, changes in dietary and cooking habits, and smaller household sizes. However, this does not mean that domestic demand has become unimportant. Soy sauce remains an essential seasoning in Japanese cuisine, and we believe it is vital to continue responding to the evolving needs of domestic consumers.

As a Japanese company, our main market is still Japan, and we are leveraging that strong foundation while actively expanding into overseas markets.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, B2B demand temporarily declined significantly, as many restaurants were forced to close. However, with the end of the pandemic and a sharp increase in inbound tourism, demand from the food service industry has recovered rapidly. In fact, it has not only returned to previous levels but continues to grow.

With the continued rise in inbound tourism, we expect sustained growth in demand for Japanese seasonings both within Japan and abroad.

As consumer preferences shift toward health-conscious products, the market for health-oriented soy sauces now accounts for approximately 15% of the overall soy sauce market in Japan. How is your company responding to this trend, and what initiatives do you plan to undertake over the coming year?

To meet the needs of health-conscious consumers, our company offers a variety of products, including reduced-sodium soy sauce. In addition, the soy sauce industry as a whole launched an awareness campaign last year to promote proper salt intake and help deepen consumer understanding.

Soy sauce is sometimes misunderstood as being "unhealthy" due to its salt content, but that is not necessarily the case. In response to changing consumer preferences, modern soy sauce has been reformulated to better suit a healthy lifestyle by adjusting its sodium levels. Today, even standard soy sauces contain a well-balanced amount of salt, making them suitable for health-conscious diets.

Moving forward, it is essential for the entire industry to shift public perception. We believe that helping consumers recognize soy sauce not only as a flavor enhancer but also as a seasoning compatible with modern, health-oriented eating habits will contribute to the continued growth of the industry.

We fully support the shift toward healthier food choices, but it's essential for soy sauce to maintain its distinctive flavor, rich color, and deep umami. Does reducing the salt content significantly affect the taste? Or have you developed a way to preserve the authentic umami and quality of soy sauce while incorporating health benefits—without compromising its flavor?

Balancing salt content and umami is extremely important. Simply reducing salt can also diminish umami. While we can't share specific production methods, it is generally the case that when salt is reduced, acidity is adjusted to maintain overall balance. The key is finding the optimal formula, and the reduced-sodium soy sauces currently on the market represent the best blend we have achieved so far.

Ultimately, much depends on consumer preference. Some people choose reduced-sodium soy sauce, while the majority still prefer traditional soy sauce with its rich umami flavor. While the health-conscious trend is expected to continue growing, traditional soy sauce is unlikely to be rapidly replaced. Rather, we anticipate a gradual increase in consumers opting for reduced-sodium varieties, while traditional soy sauce continues to be loved by many.

Higeta Shoyu boasts a proud 400-year history, passed down as a testament to tradition and craftsmanship. Could you share some of the key milestones that have shaped your company over the centuries? Additionally, we’d love to hear about your future outlook and goals moving forward.

Our company was founded in 1616, and this year marks our 409th anniversary. We are proud to be recognized as one of Japan’s oldest companies. Higeta Shoyu was the first company to produce soy sauce in the Kanto region, having been established in Choshi City, Chiba Prefecture just 16 years after the founding of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

Initially, soy sauce was brewed as tamari shoyu, made solely from soybeans. However, in 1697, our fifth-generation head, Genba Tanaka, introduced an innovative method by incorporating wheat into the fermentation process. This technique enhanced the aroma and flavor, resulting in Japan’s first Kanto-style koikuchi (dark) soy sauce.

Soy sauce became an indispensable seasoning in Japanese cuisine and, when combined with katsuobushi dashi, helped define the flavor of Edo-period washoku. Later, we formed a partnership with Kikkoman, Japan’s largest soy sauce manufacturer, which enabled us to grow significantly by utilizing the power of their expansive distribution network. Today, we rank among the top five soy sauce producers in Japan and continue striving for further growth.

Chiba Prefecture is home to a wide range of soy sauce producers—from large-scale manufacturers to small artisanal makers. What makes Chiba such a suitable region for soy sauce production?

Soy sauce can be brewed anywhere in Japan, and today there are around 1,000 soy sauce manufacturers nationwide, including many small, family-run breweries.

The main reason Higeta Shoyu was founded in Choshi City, Chiba Prefecture, is that the region’s climate is highly suitable for soy sauce production. Its warm maritime climate and high humidity create ideal conditions for fermentation, which is essential to the brewing process.

During the Edo period, river transport played a key role in distribution. Raw materials like soybeans and wheat were brought into Choshi via the Tone River, and the finished soy sauce was shipped back up the river to Edo (modern-day Tokyo). This logistical advantage was significant. Major soy sauce producers like Yamasa and Kikkoman also established their bases in Chiba, likely for similar reasons.

At the same time, each region of Japan has developed its own traditional brewing methods. Differences in local climate and techniques have led to the creation of soy sauces with distinct aromas and flavors, reflecting the diversity of Japan’s culinary heritage.

The B2B and B2C markets require significantly different approaches. In B2B sales, factors like bulk orders and long-term relationships with restaurants and food service providers are key, while B2C sales demand strong brand presence, direct consumer engagement, and effective retail strategies. How does your company tailor its marketing strategies to address these distinct markets? Additionally, are there any initiatives in place to create synergy between B2B and B2C operations that help strengthen the overall business?

Our core business lies in the B2B sector, and we currently hold a 70–80% market share in the soy sauce segment for soba restaurants, particularly in the Kanto region.

What sets our soy sauce apart is its exquisite balance with dashi. Its clear aroma and clean taste enhance the flavor of the broth without introducing any unwanted notes, which is why it’s especially valued by traditional Japanese restaurants specializing in soba. Over the years, we’ve continuously refined our soy sauce and maintained high quality to meet the evolving needs of these establishments.

A prime example of this approach is our Honzen soy sauce. Originally developed in collaboration with the renowned restaurant Tsukiji Tamura, its rich umami received high praise, prompting us to expand its availability to the B2C market as well. As a result, Honzen soy sauce has built a strong presence in both the B2B and B2C sectors, even 37 years after its launch.

Our core strategy remains focused on national brand products and custom-made solutions for professional use. However, we also develop high-quality retail products by leveraging the expertise we've gained in the B2B space. In this way, we aim to create synergy between B2B and B2C operations, strengthening our business as a whole.

Your company not only provides recipes to showcase the optimal use of soy sauce, but also offers a wide range of products such as miso-flavored ramen soup and teriyaki sauce. What motivated the decision to diversify your product line? And among your offerings, which products do you see as having the greatest growth potential going forward?

Our expertise extends beyond soy sauce to include seasonings as a whole, which is why we believe it’s essential to stay closely attuned to changing consumer preferences. By carefully analyzing market trends, we continuously develop new products that meet the evolving needs of the times. This commitment to innovation and adaptability has enabled us to build a diverse product lineup that caters to a broad range of consumers—from those who appreciate traditional flavors to those with more modern lifestyles.

Through your partnership with Kikkoman, your company benefits from access to an extensive global distribution network. Looking ahead, which regions do you prioritize for international growth? And to achieve these goals, are you considering any new partnerships?

While our primary market remains domestic, expanding overseas sales is essential for sustainable growth. At present, we export to the United States, South Korea, and Southeast Asia, but sales in these markets still represent a relatively small portion of our overall business. For this reason, we are actively working with Kikkoman to explore and enter new international markets.

Our focus is particularly on the B2B sector, strengthening sales to Japanese restaurants abroad. For now, we plan to prioritize the U.S. and Southeast Asia. That said, our international expansion is still in its early stages, and we are currently in the process of refining and defining a more concrete strategy moving forward.

In your overseas expansion, do you plan to focus solely on soy sauce, or are you aiming to introduce your full product lineup to new markets?

Our main products for overseas markets are soy sauce and tsuyu sauce. Tsuyu is a seasoning made by combining soy sauce with dashi, and it is primarily used as a dipping sauce for soba noodles.

Your research and development places a strong emphasis on the use of microorganisms essential to soy sauce brewing, such as koji mold, lactic acid bacteria, and yeast. In addition, your company has independently discovered Brevibacillus choshinensis, which is used to produce valuable proteins applied in a wide range of fields. Looking ahead, do you plan to further develop the production of these microorganisms for in-house use? Or are there plans to expand supply to external partners and industries?

This falls under a business segment separate from soy sauce. We receive requests from clients for the production of valuable proteins, and in response, we utilize Brevibacillus choshinensis as a culture medium to produce these proteins.

Higeta Shoyu has a history spanning over 400 years, with each generation of leadership guiding the company forward in line with the needs of their time. As the current president, what do you hope to achieve during your tenure? Are there any particular goals you are determined to accomplish or legacies you would like to leave for future generations?

Simply put, my mission is to strengthen Higeta Shoyu’s presence in the domestic market and solidify our position as one of Japan’s leading soy sauce manufacturers.

For more information, please visit their website at: https://www.higeta.co.jp/